Boot Considerations


From heavy welted soles, through various intermediate welted weights, to featherweight non-welted custom cowboy boots. The type of sole you choose can make a big difference in the feel of your Paul Bond custom boots.

1) Lightweight non-welted soles are the lightest and most flexible, and are the easiest to break in. Partially this is because there is no welt and partially because a thinner leather is used for the actual sole. This gives added lightness and comfort to custom made cowboy boots, although they will need resoling more often.  (You usually see lightweight soles on men’s Italian loafers or maximum comfort western dress boots.) Those seeking lightness and comfort prefer it.  

What is a welt? A welt is a strip of stiff leather that is hand sewn to the bottom of the leather in your vamps (feet of your Paul Bond custom cowboy boots). It provides a strong, tight, and stable foundation to which we sew the sole.

2) Welted soles are a little heavier, and a bit stiffer initially. They take more wear before needing resoling, and stand up better to hard treatment. This is the type of sole you more often see in Paul Bond standard men’s custom boots or women's working cowboy boots. And yes, there are different weights of soles that Paul Bond Custom Boots attaches to its welts.  The usual sole that Paul Bond Custom Boots uses is a regular weight, but we can attach thinner or heavier soles as you wish.

Men frequently, but not always, prefer welted soles. However, others prefer the extra comfort of lightweight non-welted soles for dress western boots.

Women frequently, but not always, prefer non-welted soles, featherweight soles on their handmade custom boots.


Paul Bond Custom Boots offers a wide variety of leathers. Each has its own characteristics, including toughness and flexibility. Here we are focusing on weight and suppleness in custom cowboy boots. (See more on Leathers at Boot Options.)

1) Dress Boot: Men and women who want dressy custom cowboy boots favor Kangaroo, dress weight Calf, and Ostrich, as well as the exotic leathers like Alligator, Snake, and Lizard for their Paul Bond custom boots.

2) Work Boot: Those who want a heavier and even tougher leather in their custom made cowboy boots favor hides such as Buffalo, Bull hide, and Wax French Calf. 

Wax French Calf, is the toughest for a Paul Bond handmade working cowboy boot that is going to be put to hard use such as heavy brush and/or the muck of corrals. This is the leather used in our famous Working Cowboy Boots.

 The freedom to choose exactly what you want in custom cowboy boots is one of the most enjoyable aspects of Paul Bond Custom Boots. These are designer cowboy boots.  However, we understand the process can be overwhelming to some, please feel free to call for consultation at any point.